Ghanaians have mounted a strong defence of their traditional fugu smock after President John Mahama faced online mockery for wearing the loose-fitting garment during a recent state visit to Zambia.
The backlash, which erupted on social media following his appearance in Lusaka, has instead sparked renewed national pride — and a surge in demand for the centuries-old attire widely regarded as Ghana’s unofficial national dress.
Mahama’s Zambia Visit Sparks Social Media Debate
During an official engagement in Lusaka, Mahama walked the red carpet and inspected a guard-of-honour parade wearing a blue-white-grey striped fugu, also known as batakari.
While the outfit drew criticism from some non-Ghanaians who questioned its suitability for a head of state, many Ghanaians swiftly countered the criticism, describing the comments as dismissive of African heritage and traditional fashion.
Unfazed by the controversy, Mahama’s administration declared Wednesdays as “Fugu Day”, encouraging citizens to wear locally woven smocks to work and public events.
What Is Fugu? Ghana’s Indigenous Textile Tradition
Traditionally handwoven in northern Ghana on narrow-strip looms, fugu holds deep cultural, historical, and economic significance. The colourful, flare-armed tunic is worn at:
Cultural festivals
Political ceremonies
Religious gatherings
Offices and corporate events
Textile trader William Nene, who operates a stall in central Accra, said demand has spiked dramatically since the online debate.
“People are coming specifically for it now,” he said, noting that customers are requesting styles similar to the one worn by the president.
“Since the discussion online, many want to wear something that shows they are Ghanaian.”
Cultural Identity and Economic Empowerment
The debate has evolved into a broader national conversation about Ghanaian identity, Indigenous technology, and support for local industries.
Shadrack Yao Agboli, a traditional weaver affiliated with Ghana’s National Commission on Culture, said the renewed interest is encouraging — especially among young people.
“More young people are asking questions — how it’s made, where it comes from,” he explained.
“When leaders wear it, it reminds people this cloth is ours.”
Each smock can take several days to weave by hand, providing livelihoods for families across northern Ghana.
Fugu vs Kente: Everyday Heritage vs Ceremonial Wear
Historian Yaw Anokye Frimpong described fugu as Ghana’s “unofficial national dress,” distinguishing it from Kente cloth, which is primarily ceremonial.
“Unlike kente, which is largely ceremonial, the smock is everyday wear,” he said.
“Our ancestors even wore it into battle. It represents Indigenous technology and self-reliance.”
The resurgence in fugu popularity is also seen as an economic opportunity for local artisans competing with cheaper imported clothing, particularly from Asian markets.
Boost for Local Textile Industry
Frederick Ohene Offei-Addo of Asaase Broadcasting Company said wearing Ghana-made textiles is both patriotic and strategic.
“If we talk about industrialisation and job creation, we must be intentional about what we buy and wear. Culture is not just heritage — it’s livelihoods.”
The Ghanaian government has been promoting local textile production and cultural exports as part of broader economic reforms aimed at reducing import dependence and boosting employment.
For traders like Nene, however, the impact is immediate and visible.
“When people see it on the president, they want one too,” he said, pointing to nearly empty racks.
“Right now, we can’t weave them fast enough.”
